Not just the waves

Surfing is not only about riding waves, granted that aspect is phenomenal. But there is 1 billion things I love about surfing.

The excitement begins before I even awake the next day.

I imagine ideal experiences while thinking of the day to come. Crystal clear water, offshore wind carving the waves into thick barrels.

The excitement when I awake drives me out of bed quickly.

The lead foot driving to the beach, I blame, on the surge of adrenaline, as I anticipate the fun to come.

The moment the windows roll down, and the fresh air hits my sinuses, my entire nervous system relaxes. As the relief sets in, I get more groovy to the tunes playing.

My heart races as I near the lineup. Especially when there’s good waves!

Over the years, I’ve learned to not let this adrenaline skip a vital part. Stretching with breathing exercises before paddling out, can make a large difference and prevent injuries.

I connect with the sound of the crashing waves. Fill my lungs with deep breaths of fresh salt air, then release any tensions with my exhaling breath.

I love the smell of the salty sand, as I practice downward facing dog. My body feeling looser and energized by each stretch.

Finally, I run to the water, as a child running to a missed friend. My heart full of love, appreciation to be in this moment entering the refreshing sea. My skin awakened with the slight chill of the water.

I dive below the surface, in love with each detail of each moment.

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